Fork seals - Is it an easy job

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Fork seals - Is it an easy job

Postby Shaunlacy » Fri Apr 07, 2017 12:48 pm

Hi all, my front right fork seal has failed on my 95 ZZR1100-D. shop quoted £150.00 to sort it. Just wondering how difficult a job it is as I could do without paying someone £150.00. Do you need a special tool?

All feedback very much appreciated.

Cheers
Shaunlacy
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Re: Fork seals - Is it an easy job

Postby barry1200 » Fri Apr 07, 2017 1:22 pm

Ideal time to give the forks a bit of a service..... depends how far you want/need to go,... just a seal and oil change, of new bushes too,.... have a look here, not a difficult job. I assume you know how to get the fork lesgs off the bike, to start with? Also, slacken off the top yoke pinch bolts first, and then just slacken off the fork leg top nut so you can get it out when the fork leg is out. Enjoy. thumbup

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzJ8JgLtgk0

Lots of videos on youtube.
Image
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Re: Fork seals - Is it an easy job

Postby MZtoZZ » Fri Apr 07, 2017 8:57 pm

Hi,

I've done three sets on my D5. Withou5 any special tools.
This is my method.
Find one or two pieces of wood about 2" thick and at least 3"" wide and about 20" long or two pieces 6" long.park the bike up on the centre stand where you are going .to carry out the job. Tilt the bike over to one side and kick the timber under the centre stand feet to lift it off the ground a bit. I use a car scissor jack under the exhaust collector to raise the front wheel off the ground until the rear tyre touches the ground, don't go up too far as it'll unbalance the bike.
Then I remove the 4 Allen pins holding the handlebars on, lift them out of the way and then slacken the large top but from the fork tube, just slacken it at this point.
Next remove the calipers and hang them off the fairing or somewhere. Remove the speedo cable and the front wheel and mudguard.
Then slacken off the lower and upper yolk clamps on one fork and remove that fork complete. I do them one at a time.
Remove the large top but from the fork tube complete with the adjusters, then the washer, spacer tube and the other washer and the spring, noting which order they come out, then upturn the assembly and pour/pump the oil out.
So then you need to remove the Allen pin hiding up in the bottom of the lower leg.I think its a 10mm hex, I use a driver bit in a long reach narrow 10mm socket, this is where my common or garden special tool comes in. Its a piece of stout wooden broom handle, 28mm diameter, cut it off about 550 mm long and file a slight chamfer around the cut end, slide it down the fork tube and locate it into the socket shaped hole in the end of the damper rod ( look down with a torch to see it), give the end of the broom handle a whack with a mallet to seat it into the damper rod. Then I put it down, fit a pipe wrench onto the broom stale and the tool you use in the Allen pin at the other end, hold it all down under your feet and slacken the Allen pin, which is incredibly tight. Next your ready to lift out the dust cap and the wire circlip that hold the fork oil seal in, the.end you can use the 'slide hammer' method shown in the video tagged in the previous post by Barry.
You can replace your fork bushes quite easily, I did mine at around 45000 miles, but they weren't worn or scored at all. You will need to press your new fork seal in sufficient ly to leave room for the circlip to seat correctly and then the new dust cap. Tighten the Allen pin with a bit of thread lock or silicone on the thread, using the same tools as used in removal only the pipe wrench is on the other way.
When that's tight I put in the fresh oil, using a steel rule as a dipstick. I tape on a pencil at 135mm and dip it till the oil reaches 2mm on the rule, level is then 133mm from the top of the fork tube, holding it vertical. Then refit the spring, washer and spacer and the top washer, then Its an awkward job to locate the damper adjuster rod into the correct hole in the right orientation, then screw down the top nut as tight as you can by hand, then slide the assembly back into the yolks, fit the handlebar back on push the fork in and up till its in the right place and tighten the lower yolk clamp bolts, awkward little bolt with a nut on it is.
Do the other fork the same.
Fit the front mudguard and wheel.
Tighten the front axle, bump the forks up and down a little, then tighten the axle clamp Allen pins and then the top yolk pinch bolts. Then remove the handlebar and tighten the top nut with your 27mm socket/adjustable.
Check all fixings are tight and secure everything works and there's nothing left over but for the old parts you've replaced.
There, you've saved yourself £120. ;-))))
Regards
MZtoZZ
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Re: Fork seals - Is it an easy job

Postby Shaunlacy » Sat Apr 08, 2017 10:22 am

Brilliant. Many thanks for that. I'll give it a go as soon as new seals arrive. I'll let you know how I get on.
Shaunlacy
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Re: Fork seals - Is it an easy job

Postby Greyuu » Mon Apr 10, 2017 3:43 pm

I use a paint roller with the old seal on top to seat the new oil seal.

DIY PartyDance
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Re: Fork seals - Is it an easy job

Postby MZtoZZ » Thu Apr 13, 2017 4:06 pm

Hi,

I cannot believe that I wrote all that and then noticed I had already written it all seven topics back down the list under "D5 fork seal replacement nightmare"
It must be an age thing, or am I just getting a bit senile, or am I just getting a bit senile, now, what did I come in here for?
Regards
MZtoZZ
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Re: Fork seals - Is it an easy job

Postby Shaunlacy » Sat Apr 15, 2017 10:58 am

lol, I had a look at earlier posts too, must be senile as well as I hadn't seen it!
Shaunlacy
Club Racer
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Oct 23, 2010 1:50 pm
Location: England
Geographic Location: Hyde Manchester
My Bike Make: Kawasaki,
Engine Size: 1100
Model: ZZR D

Re: Fork seals - Is it an easy job

Postby Shaunlacy » Sat Apr 15, 2017 4:02 pm

Got everything off and ready, however chickened put a bit and ordered the fork removal tool. Wasn't confident enough to make one. Waiting for that to come now.
Shaunlacy
Club Racer
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Oct 23, 2010 1:50 pm
Location: England
Geographic Location: Hyde Manchester
My Bike Make: Kawasaki,
Engine Size: 1100
Model: ZZR D

Re: Fork seals - Is it an easy job

Postby Shaunlacy » Fri Apr 21, 2017 4:30 pm

Well, all in all wasn't too difficult. Once we had worked it all out. Many thanks for all the help. I saved £100 smackers!!!!
Shaunlacy
Club Racer
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Oct 23, 2010 1:50 pm
Location: England
Geographic Location: Hyde Manchester
My Bike Make: Kawasaki,
Engine Size: 1100
Model: ZZR D

Re: Fork seals - Is it an easy job

Postby Shaunlacy » Sun May 07, 2017 10:18 am

Forgot to mention. I went to B & Q and bought a length of Floplast guttering. It is exactly the right diameter for knocking the new seals into place. £6.35 well spent!
Shaunlacy
Club Racer
 
Posts: 60
Joined: Sat Oct 23, 2010 1:50 pm
Location: England
Geographic Location: Hyde Manchester
My Bike Make: Kawasaki,
Engine Size: 1100
Model: ZZR D


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